At long last, namely almost a year and a half later, I have gotten around to figuring out the pattern for this sweet crocheted doily rug! My apologies to those of you who have been waiting, I quite simply could not find the large chunk of time or the brain power to do this until now! Plus I am not a professional crochet designer or pattern writer by any means, and I knew that there was an inconsistency or two in the pattern, that I had hoped to solve. Now after having made a smaller version of this rug to check the pattern, it turns out that there is one small inconsistency, that I didn’t have time to work out, so please do be aware of that, though I state the problem clearly, and it’s not something that is noticeable in the outcome of the rug. If any one feels like tackling this problem in the pattern, by all means, give it a try, one just needs to re-work a row or two I believe.
I used spaghetti t-shirt yarn and a size 12mm hook, and while the rug looks great in the photo, it is honestly too floppy to be used on the floor (unless you sew it to a backing, or it’s just for decoration in a spot never walked on.) So, I’d recommend trying to crochet with a smaller hook, or 2 strands of spaghetti, or using a few strands of rug wool or better yet, rope, to get a more stable result. Do a swatch before diving in! Or make one just like this and toss it over your couch or use it on the dining room table, also lovely, photos of that to come! And just by the way, if you prefer to knit, you could likely make something similar with t-shirt yarn and large knitting needles, using a knit doily pattern.
Giant Crocheted Doily Rug Pattern:
Guage in not important for this pattern, any hook size and corresponding yarn, rope or crochetable material can and should be used! That said, I used 2 skeins of zpaghetti t-shirt yarn and a size 12mm hook.
R1: Ch8, sl st in the first ch to join forming a ring. Ch3, 17dc in ring. Sl st in top of beg ch3. (18dc)
R2: Ch4, do not turn. (Dc in next st, ch1) around. Join with sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch4.
R3: Sl st in next ch sp. Ch3, 2dc in same sp. 3dc in each remaining ch sp. Join with sl st to beg ch3. (54dc)
R4: Ch1. Work the following across ea 3dc group: Sc in 1st dc, hdc in 2nd dc, dc in 3rd dc, ch 3.
R5: Sl st in first sc made. Sl st in dc. Sc in the 3 ch space. Ch5 (Sc in the space between the next dc and 3 chs, ch5) around. Sl st in first sc made.
R6: Ch5. (Sc in next ch5 space, ch5) around. Instead of ending with ch5, end with ch2 and dc in first sc.
R7: Ch1. In next loop: (Sc, ch5, sc) ch 1 and in next look (sc, ch5, sc). Continue around, and after last sc ch1 and sl st in first sc.
R8: Sl st in first 5ch loop, sc into loop, ch6, sc in next loop, ch6 around. After last ch6, sl st into first sc.
R9: Ch3, 5 dc in loop, 1 dc in next sc, 5 dc in loop, 1 dc in next sc. Continue around, ending with 6dc in last loop, and join with sl st to top of first ch3.
R10: Ch1, sc in same stitch, hdc in next stitch, dc in next stitch, ch 3. Continue with sc,hdc,dc,ch3 sequence around and join with sl st to first stitch.
R11: Sl st up to 3 ch loop. Sc in loop, ch5, sc in next loop. After last ch5 join with sl st to first sc.
R12: Sc in loop, ch 5, sc in next loop, ch5. Continue around, and at end ch2 and dc in first sc.
R13: Ch3, 3 dc in first ch5 loop, 4dc in next loop, and 4 dc in every ch5 loop around. Join to first ch with sl st.
R 14: Sk first 2 dc (3dc in next dc, ch1, 3 dc in next dc) (shell made), sk next dc, sl st in next dc, *sl st in next dc, sk next dc, 3 dc in next dc, ch1 3 dc in next dc, sk next dc. Continue around and sl st at base of first dc to join.
R 15: Ch 6 (counts as dc, ch3), sc in next ch1 sp, ch3 dc between next 2 sl sts, *ch3, sc in next ch1 sp, ch3, dc between next 2 sl sts, repeat from* around, ending with ch3, sc in next ch1 sp, ch3 sl st in 3rd ch of beginning ch to join.
Note: a little fudging was required here on my part at the very end of the row, by skipping over what could have been a double crochet between two slip stitches at the end of the row. Just skip it, and you’ll never notice the difference. Okay, there might be a slighty bigger space here, and not exactly clean professional crochet I know, but that’s what we have to work with, so onward, unless of course you’d like to figure out how to fix this?
A generous reader has come up with a solution to the above problem which I have posted as the end of this post!
R 16: * Ch 3, sk next ch3 sp, (dc,ch3,dc) in next sc (V-st made), ch3, sk next ch3 sp, sl st in next 9 stitches, repeat from * around, omitting last 4 sl sts, ending with sl st in last sc.
Note: I know, a diagram would be great here! The 9 stitches that you make slip stitches are as follows: the double crochet (that you made into the space between the two slip stitches in the previous row) the next 3 chains, the single crochet, the next 3 chains and the next double crochet. This produces the effect of a half moons spaced out, with the slip stitch areas in between, you’ll see what I mean when you do it, hopefully!
R17: Sk next ch3 sp of round 16, *5dc in each of next 3 ch3 sps (fan made), sk next 4 sl sts, sc in next sl st (above sc from round 15); repeat from * around, sl st in first dc to join.
R18: Optional. Single crochet around, though to make the fans pointed, crochet 3dc in the center dc of each fan. Fasten off and weave in ends. Congratulations!
Note: This pattern may not be reprinted on any other sites, please link back to my post if you’d like to share this!
Pattern Revisions For Rows 14-17: (Thanks to Liat)
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